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Ana and Simon have been exploring Cadiz. Here we will put some notes and pictures about some of the places we find, mostly as a reference to help us find them again ! But maybe these might prove helpful to friends/family/others.

Cumpleanos Feliz

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We drive into Jerez, leaving the stormclouds to the south, with 3 generations and 2 Carmens in the car. In Jerez we find the Calle Porvera lined with Jacaranda trees. We head for the Plaza Rafael Rivero with cerveza and Fino (I get the impression it would be bad form to drink Manzanilla in Jerez).

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The sundial is 2 hours out. I think the date refers to the square/building rather than the sundial – it looks way too modern. It’s also a little unclear how we tell the time in the afternoon – must be a morning only sundial. (As an aside I’m wishing for a proper camera instead of the lazybod smartphone option.) The Sun is strong and beautiful today: will the processions go ahead ? They need to be confident that hey won’t get the icons wet. Time for the next square and the next bar. A big open square: Plaza del Blanco. A french lad sings compleanos feliz very sweetly. And Ana spots a small boy disappearing round the corner, he’s doing his own procession, his own penitence. Where do you finish ? ….At the sweetshop.

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Jose Chavez Morado


Just a few minutes walk from the apartment, passing through the tiled and tree-lined park which follows the Alameda, we found the Baluarte Candalaria, an old (17th Century) fort, now an exhibition space/cultural venue. We were last here two years ago, at night, to watch a flamenco show. The place looked completely different this time – without the tables and the chairs, and the Manzanilla. And where did all those trees come from ?

Inside, an unexpected treat, an exhibition of the Mexican artist/muralist Jose Chavez Morado. A contemporary of Diego Rivera, big chunky feet and hands, fantastic stuff, and completely unknown to me. Check out the astronomer (with a bit of imagination).

Aside

Taberna El Albero

ImageIn front of us we have one empty bowl of albondigas de choclo (cuttlefish balls), peppery and so so good. This bar (Taberna El Albero, links below) is a little special, run by an ex-bullfighter/flamenco singer . It’s situated in Barrio de la Viña. The walls are covered with photos of the man with Camaron de la Isla. And stopped clocks: we need to go back and see what time they were stopped at, and if it means anything.

The other empty bowl is no longer full of clams in a sauce of Fino, pimento, ajo, oil. Or maybe it’s Oloroso. Anyway it’s something winey from Jerez.

I’ve had 20 glasses of Manzanilla today. And I’ll have 20 tomorrow. And every day. Nobody ever died from that…

A very special, very happy hour.

Taberna El Albero, Calle San Felix 2, Cadiz, Spain, a little youtube video, and on tripadvisor

Little Fried Fishies

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The bar on the corner of the street (La Nueva Del Puerto) does a great line in mariscos .. and cerveza. 2pm and the bar is suddenly noisy and alive. We’ve been eating pijotas (small fried whole baby hake?), gallerias (little baby lobsters, very soft, orange roe through the middle). They also have orteguias (sea anenomes). The boquerones (anchovies) are simply delicious.

We are standing on the corner of the Plaza Mina (square of the miners.. I wonder what they mined here). The tables are on the street. A lorry needs to come by, so we all pick up our tables and move them to the side to let him past. No one spills their Cruz Campo. To finish we eat salmonetes – beautiful red baby salmons, again fried whole, but this time washed down with a refreshing light glass of Tierra Blanca.

Semana Santa in Cadiz: Mon 2nd April

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A beautiful evening in Cadiz. Time to catch the procession (we’ll need to check which). Streets packed.  Followed by a quick medio racion de Jamon Iberico at our wonderful local bar (Cumbres Mayores), washed down with a beautiful Rioja.